Shahnawaz Halal Buffet/
Tandoori Restaurant/Catering
12225 Centralia Rd.
Lakewood, CA 95015
Tel: (562) 402-7443
Fax: (562) 809-4956
Milpitas Location:
1770 Clear Lake Ave.
(Corner of Landess & Park Victoria)
Milpitas, CA 95035
Tel: (408) 946-2882
Fax: (408) 946-1001
Website:
http://www.shahnawazrestaurant.com
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Sunday, July 16, 2006 :
30 members of MASC’s Gourmet Club “Makan Makan” had their monthly luncheon at Shahnawaz Buffet in Lakewood. Established in 1987 as the southern California branch of a 40 year old Milpitas institution, Shahnawaz Buffet serves 100% halal Pakistani food, made fresh daily from delicious time-tested recipes. It is the biggest buffet of its kind in Los Angeles County, well-worth the commute for the weekend lunch buffet.
Although some dishes had similar names as dishes one would find in Indian restaurants (lamb korma, tandoori chicken, naan, bhindi masala, etc), Pakistani food is different from most regional Indian cuisines. For one thing, you will find some beef dishes at the buffet. Dip Shahnawaz’ savory fresh baked naan into haleem, a slow cooked dish made of wheat, beef, lentils and spices, reminiscent of pea soup or soft dhal. Nehari, beef shanks, beg for more naan to sop up every drop of garlicky sauce. If that leaves you asking, “Where’s the beef?”, dig into their highly addictive beef biryani.
Unlike Indian biryani dishes, where all ingredients are simmered together in ghee and/or yogurt, Pakistani biryani is non-dairy, prepared in layers of rice, meat, and spices, then baked on low heat in a covered dish. In this way, every kernel of rice and shred of meat is strongly infused with garlic, onion, ginger, coriander, bay leaves, and a touch of cloves, cinnamon, and cardamom. A bit of saffron gives the biryani an orange glow. A sprinkle of turmeric, another orange spice, also colors the tandoori chicken. Imagine, eating tandoori chicken without red food coloring, and yet realizing as you chew, "This is what it is supposed to taste like”—moist, tender, with a hint of smoke and cumin.
Lamb is the meat of choice in Pakistan. I had never seen lamb prepared so many different ways at one buffet—lamb korma, lamb kabab, and lamb paya—succulent lamb’s feet braised in a rich, spicy sauce. Islamic dietary laws do not forbid combination of meat and dairy (provided that the meat is zabihah, slaughtered according to Islamic rites), but most meat dishes at Shahnawaz Buffet do not include sour cream, yogurt, or ghee. Fewer calories, more flavor! One piece of lamb kabab, so soft it melts in your mouth, is a garlic lover’s delight.
Vegetarians will not walk away from the buffet disappointed. Bhindi masala, a dish of smoky sliced okra, bell peppers, onion, and tomato, impressed us with its slight crispness. Who said okra had to be cooked to a soggy, slimy consistency, so often found in curry dishes around the world? Bhagare baigan, eggplant (known as brinjal to us Malaysians) stuffed with a paste of roasted coconut, sesame, peanuts, tamarind, and ginger-garlic paste, is also a must-try. Although I craved bhindi masala all night and day after eating my share, the favorite veggie dish at the buffet among MASC members had to be Mirch Ka Salan, huge jalapeño peppers yellow inside and out with turmeric, in a sauce made of sesame, peanuts, coconut, cumin, ginger, tamarind, and more chilies, sprinkled with chopped coriander.
Leave room for the sweet, authentic desserts, accompanied by milky, peppery chai masala! No tired gulab jamun here. I highly recommend gajar ka halwa: ground almonds and carrot cooked with honey and saffron, flavored with pistachios, raisins, cashews, and cardamom. Their kheer (rice pudding) is the thickest and creamiest you will ever find.
Want more? Shahnawaz has a take-out menu featuring all items mentioned in this review, as well as catering for all occasions. Items served at the buffet may vary from day to day. For a complete list of dishes served, go to http://www.shahnawazrestaurant.com. The owners and employees are friendly and happy to answer any questions you may have about their food, hours of operation, or simply how to find the way there. The buffet, just a few blocks away from Little India, is located in a strip mall that includes a Pakistani grocery store, a boutique, and mosque.
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